|Hawes Amplifier Archive||
FET Preamplifier FAQs, Part 2
Basic Preamp Questions
QUESTION. What type of battery should I use with the preamp?
ANSWER. We're talking about the nine-volt, Type PP3 battery that powers the preamp. The usual battery choices are alkaline and heavy duty (zinc chloride). I'll compare these two.
I prefer the "heavy-duty" battery. A heavy duty cell fails gradually and allows continued performance. When you hear distortion or the amp seems weak, replace the battery. Alkalines fail suddenly. You could be in mid-performance and lose your lead guitar!
An alkaline cell might last longer. Yet the gradual failure of the heavy duty cell is a tremendous advantage. Advertising claims that alkaline cells last "six times as long" seem to be exaggerations. An arbitrary test might prove such a claim, but real life tells a different story.
True, neither battery type fails very fast. The reason is that the preamp poses only a light load. The preamp's average current drain is only 2 milliamperes. Some heavy duty batteries have a 400 mAh rating. With this rating, your average battery life could be 200 hours! (Actually, the way that you use the battery affects how long it lasts.) A heavy duty battery will save you some money, too.
When you aren't using the preamp for an extended period, remove the battery. Battery leakage can destroy the preamp. I've seen battery acid completely eat through the leads of a semiconductor.
QUESTION. Can I buy a preamp from you? Will you build me one?
ANSWER. What are you offering me? Bids start at $100, cash in advance. But hey, this is really a do-it-yourself project. Before sending money, please read the next question.
If you'd still rather buy a preamplifier, why not buy a commercial one? The Para Acoustic includes a class-A, FET amplifier, plus an equalizer. You power the circuit with a 9-volt, internal battery or 48-volt, phantom power. The unit is stingy on the power requirement, too. This amp only uses 2.9 mA. The manufacturer claims that with an alkaline cell, you can get 200 hours of operation. The output impedance is 600 ohms, about a third of what my JFET amp develops. You can order from this site: Commercial JFET Preamp.
QUESTION. I don't know electronics. Can I build your preamp?
ANSWER. FETs can really challenge a first-time project builder. FETs are fragile. No two are alike. They're sensitive, temperamental and mischievous. Touch a FET the wrong way, and it goes away and never comes back. Can't cuss your way through a little old-fashioned trouble? Then don't bother with FET preamps. Those are the negatives. Here's the positive: A FET can produce the most melodious tones that you can imagine. Make a special effort. If you want to succeed badly enough, you will.
QUESTION. Where can I buy the MPF102 JFET?
ANSWER. Check out the sites below. Based on my personal experience, I highly recommend these vendors. I'm very proud to have Allied as an advertiser on this site. The parts are top quality and the service is second to none. Visit these sites and then please, come back...
QUESTION. What are some advantages of working with FETs?
ANSWER. There are several advantages...
QUESTION. Will the JFET preamplifier work with a piezo pickup or a piezo element?
ANSWER. Yes, of course!
If you're building a guitar pickup, you might be using a piezo element. You can find such elements at Radio Shack, All Electronics and Electronics Goldmine. Make sure that you're getting an element and not a buzzer. You don't want the buzzer circuit. You just want the transducer.Piezo elements are easy to work with, and you don't need to wind any coils. The soldering is the tricky part. You might need to buy a small amount of silver solder. Make sure that your iron is hot and clean. If the element has attached wires, use those wires. Splice a shielded cable to the element wires. Connect the cable to the guitar jack.
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JFET Preamp Pages
♦ WARNING. This is your project. Your achievement is entirely yours. I assume no responsibility for your success in using methods on these pages. If you fail, the same is true. I neither make nor imply any warranty. I don't guarantee the accuracy or effectiveness of these methods. Parts, skill and assembly methods vary. So will your results. Proceed at your own risk.
♦ WARNING. Electronic projects can pose hazards. Soldering irons can burn you. Chassis paint and solder are poisons. Even with battery projects, wiring mistakes can start fires. If the schematic and description on this page baffle you, this project is too advanced. Try something else. Again, damages, injuries and errors are your responsibility. — The Webmaster
Copyright © 2007 by James T. Hawes. All rights reserved.