Hawes Amplifier Archive by James T. Hawes, AA9DT
Car Reverbs

1966 Kit Installation

Installation Instructions for Meyer's Demco Kit

Classic Reverb Kit for Cars. Daniel Meyer (“Demco”) and Popular Electronics Magazine offered the first car reverb kit in 1966. (Magazines had published earlier car reverb projects. But Meyer's Demco reverb is the first manufactured parts kit.) We've pieced together the installation instructions for use with classic cars.

Two-part reverb This kit pre-dates the release of the mini-spring tank by Gibbs. For that reason, the kit installs in two pieces: The under-dash control module and the trunk-mount tank and recovery amplifier. The kit also requires a rear speaker, which your car might already have. Unfortunately, the kit PC board is unavailable today. But an ambitious maker can scrabble the circuit together on perfboard. Back in the day, that's how we built our projects.


✪ CAUTION. The reverb circuits on this page aren't guitar stomp boxes! Don't try to adapt them for guitar. Guitar reverbs require a reverb tank driver on the input of the tank. (This tank driver is an amplifier with a high impedance front end.)


✪ CAUTION: Instructions are Approximate. This page can't tell you exactly how to connect the unit in a classic car. Each car manufacturer has its own wire colors and standards. By studying drawings of reverb units, one can puzzle out the approximate instructions. Our educated guesses appear below.


▲ WARNING. This page assumes the use of a classic radio receiver (3 Wrms output, maximum) with the kit. Use the kit with negative-ground vehicles only! The term “classic” refers to a period radio and reverb from the 1960s. Never connect a classic reverb unit to a contemporary radio. The two are incompatible. Connecting them will likely cause a fire. Personal injury and equipment damage could result.


In-car wiring, 1966 reverb

Art: 1966 reverb control unit and trunk unit

♦ NOTICE: Connection Numbering. In these instructions, wire connections appear as numbers (“1”, “2”).


✪ CAUTION: Speaker Dos and Don'ts (1966). Only use this kit with negative-ground vehicles. The kit can operate 4, 8, or 10-ohm speakers.

  • Do ground speakers to the car chassis, as necessary.
  • Don't use this kit with 40-ohm or other types of speakers!
  • Don't use this kit with a speaker that carries a DC voltage on either of its leads.

Otherwise, kit malfunctions or equipment damage might result.


Rear Speaker Assembly

  1. If necessary, mount the 6-by-9 rear-deck speaker and speaker grille. (Only 4, 8, or 10-ohm speaker speakers are compatible with this unit!) Follow instructions that came with the speaker and grille.

Under-Dash Module

  1. Turn off the ignition accessory switch, so that no power flows to the car radio.

  2. Disconnect the speaker from the car AM radio.

  3. Connect Reverb Terminal 1 to the car radio's "SPEAKER +" terminal (Wire 1).

  4. Connect the car radio's "SPEAKER -" terminal to the car ground terminal (Wire 2).

  5. On the front speaker: Connect the "SPEAKER +" wire to Reverb Terminal 3.

  6. On the front speaker: Connect the "SPEAKER -" wire to the car ground terminal.

  7. Connect wires 4, 5, and 7 to the Under-Dash Module.


Trunk Module

  1. Run wires 4, 5, and 7 from the Under-Dash Module to the trunk.

  2. Connect wires 4 and 5 to their terminals on the Trunk Module.

  3. Connect Trunk Module Terminal 6 to the car ground terminal (Wire 6).

  4. On the rear speaker: Connect Wire 7 from the Under-Dash Module to the rear speaker.

  5. On the rear speaker: Connect the "SPEAKER -" wire to the car ground terminal.

  6. Connect Reverb Terminal 8 to +13.8V through F1, a 1ASB fuse. (13.8V is available at the accessories terminal of the car's ignition switch.)

  7. Mount the Trunk Module inside the trunk. Hardware: Use mechanical dampers (rubber washers, springs, etc.) This hardware reduces spurious sounds when rough road pavement jostles the reverb springs.


Optional Alignment

  1. Turn on the car radio.

  2. On the reverb, cut out the reverb by toggling the switch.

  3. On the reverb, turn the fader rheostat knob and listen.

  4. Answer these questions...
    1. Does turning the control vary the volume at the speakers?
    2. Does the front volume increase to maximum at one extreme position?
    3. Does the rear volume increase to maximum at the other extreme position?
    4. Does the rear volume increase as the front volume decreases?

  5. NO to any of these questions: Check and repair your work. YES to all questions: Go to the next step.

  6. On the reverb, cut in the reverb by toggling the switch.

  1. Is the volume about the same as before? YES: Go to the next step. NO: Service your work as necessary, until you can answer YES to this step.

  2. Using the radio volume control, set the radio to your normal listening level.

Art: Partial schematic, showing Meyer '66 recovery amp, Q1 with adjustment pot R4, 1K
  1. Set the fader rheostat knob about halfway. Rear sound should probably be slightly quieter than front sound (a matter of taste).

  2. Level trimmer. Inside the reverb, trimmer resistor R4 (1K) adjusts preamp gain. Adjust trimmer resistor R4 while listening to the rear speaker. Set R4 for your preferred level of reverberation on the REAR speaker.

  3. Turn the radio off. (Keep the reverb in the circuit.)

  4. Output bias. With your DVM, measure the DC voltage between ground and the collector of Q5. (On the 1966 kit, the collector is the transistor case.) Popular Electronics says that the target voltage is 6V. But: This voltage is half of your car battery voltage during a typical drive. Depending on your power supply, this voltage could be somewhere between 6V and 7V.

Art: Where to place voltmeter leads on TO-3 power transistor

Art: Partial schematic, showing Meyer '66 recovery amp, Q2 with adjustment pot R8, 25K
  1. Voltage is below 6V: Use trimmer R8 (25K) to increase the voltage to 6V. Voltage is above 6V: Use trimmer R8 to decrease the voltage to 6V.
    Voltage is about 6V: Go to the next step.

  2. Screw the top on the reverb unit.

  3. Using sheet metal screws, mount the Under-Dash Module beneath the dashboard.




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▲ WARNING. Anyone who builds these circuits does so at his own risk. I take no responsibility for your success or failure. If you injure yourself, damage your favorite oscilloscope or burn your house down, you pay the damages.

If you aren't an advanced builder and experimenter, don't even attempt this project.

From time to time, I will update and attempt to improve the information on this page. I will make changes without notice.

I assume no responsibility for errors or inaccuracies that might occur on these pages.


♦ NOTICE. If you'd like to contribute ideas or suggestions, email me. Submitted ideas and suggestions become the property of Hawes Amplifier Archive. I try to mention the source of anything I use.


♦ NOTICE: FURTHER INFORMATION. The details that I have appear on these pages. As I learn more, I'll add more data. Please don't email me for more information.


♦ NOTICE. None of the reverb units on this page is for sale by me. You might find one on eBay, though.


♦ NOTICE: Repairs, Modifications. Buy a Sams PhotoFact (schematic) set on eBay. I don't have, nor do I provide schematics. I don't repair or modify reverb units.



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1966 Kit