Hawes Amplifier Archive by James T. Hawes, AA9DT

Car Reverbs



Car Reverb Kits


✪ CAUTION. The reverb circuits on this page aren't guitar stomp boxes! Don't try to adapt them for guitar. Unlike car reverbs, a guitar reverb requires a tank driver at the tank input. (This tank driver is an amplifier with a high impedance front end.)


A slab of perfboard, some bus wire, 60 parts, and “Bob's your uncle!” Reverb time! Popular Electronics described a car reverb kit in February, 1966. Engineering wizard Daniel Meyer was the author of the groundbreaking reverb article.

Improved Mini-Kit. In May, 1967, Meyer offered a miniature version of his reverb kit.

Photo: Meyer 
       reverb, 1966 model

Meyer's 1966 reverb unit. Here, all-in-one model for use with home stereo. The mobile model had under-dash control & trunk-mount tank & amplifier. (Kit, $15.00) Popular Electronics photo

The entire '67 kit fit under the dashboard. This kit even worked with stereo radios. (Meyer was also the entrepreneur behind Demco and Southwest Technical Products.)

For tech insiders, Meyer provided schematics. A builder could forgo the kit and build a car reverb from scratch.

Meyer's diagrams helped builders to install the circuit in many car types. The mobile circuit ran off 13.8-volt (“12V”) power from the car battery (Negative ground). The input for the reverb springs was the car's AM radio.

Meyer's circuit recovered and amplified the output signal from the reverb springs. There was a one-transistor preamp for gain. Then a pre-driver, and a complementary power amplifier. The small, 3-watt power amplifier matched the maximum volume level from the AM radio. An under-dash control unit included a fader that balanced the dry and wet signals. A switch toggled between front and rear-normal vs. front-normal and rear-reverb sound. In the '67 kit, the fader included the switch. The amplifier drove the rear speaker.


Building Meyer's Reverb Today

Take Liberties. Suppose that you want to build Meyer's Demco reverb unit. You'll have to take liberties. Some “classic parts” aren't available anymore.

▲ WARNING. This page assumes the use of a classic radio receiver (3 Wrms output, maximum) with the kit. Use the kit with negative-ground vehicles only! The term “classic” refers to a period radio and reverb from the 1960s. Never connect a classic reverb unit to a contemporary radio. The two are incompatible. Connecting them will likely cause a fire. Personal injury and equipment damage could result.

Reverb tank. To build these projects, you'll need a reverb tank
(springs) that match what Meyer used...

Tank Specifications
Input Z 8-10Ω, grounded to chassis
Output Z 2KΩ-4KΩ, grounded to chassis
Delay Time Medium, about 33 mS
Tank Length 1966 Kit: Short, 9.3"; 1967 Kit: 3"; Today: 5.3", available from Accutronics
Comment. Accutronics, Belton & Mod make such tanks. (Gibbs doesn't manufacture tanks anymore.)
Photo: Meyer 
       reverb, 1967 mini model

Left: Meyer's 1967 mini-reverb kit ($16.74). Tank & recovery amp fit under dashboard. (Popular Electronics photo)

Convert to silicon. Replace germanium transistors with silicon transistors. Silicon transistors (Si) are less leaky and more stable than germanium (Ge) transistors. (Major chip foundries aren't making germanium devices anymore.) Rebias the circuit to operate with silicon devices. Follow the table below.


Transistor Substitution Guide

Device & Type 1966 1967 Replace with
Q1 2N3638, PNP, Si MPS3708, NPN, Si 2N3904, NPN, Si
Q2 2N3638, PNP, Si MPS3708, NPN, Si 2N3904, NPN, Si
Q3 2N3706, NPN, Si MPS3708, NPN, Si BC550C, NPN, Si
Q4 2N3638, PNP, Si MPS3638, PNP, Si BC557C, PNP, Si
Q5 2N3611, PNP, Ge TIP24, NPN, Si TIP41C, NPN, Si
Q6 2N3611, PNP, Ge TIP24, NPN, Si TIP41C, NPN, Si
Art: Pinout of suggested replacement transistors

Other considerations. When you switch from PNP to NPN, reverse polarized devices in the circuit. (Polarized devices: Capacitors, diodes, transistors, batteries.)

Contents

Art: 1966 reverb control unit and trunk unit


In-car wiring, 1966 reverb

Art: 1967 reverb control unit and trunk unit


In-car wiring, 1967 reverb




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▲ WARNING. Anyone who builds these circuits does so at his own risk. I take no responsibility for your success or failure. If you injure yourself, damage your favorite oscilloscope or burn your house down, you pay the damages.

If you aren't an advanced builder and experimenter, don't even attempt this project.

From time to time, I will update and attempt to improve the information on this page. I will make changes without notice.

I assume no responsibility for errors or inaccuracies that might occur on these pages.


✪ CAUTION. The 1966 project has no power on-off switch. The lacking switch means that the reverb amplifier draws power from the car battery constantly. This is true even when the reverb effect is inaudible. The amplifier will drain a small amount of current from your battery. You can prevent this drain by adding a power switch to the project. (Meyer's 1967 kit added a power-off feature.)


♦ NOTICE. If you'd like to contribute ideas or suggestions, email me. Submitted ideas and suggestions become the property of Hawes Amplifier Archive. I try to mention the source of anything I use.


♦ NOTICE: FURTHER INFORMATION. The details that I have appear on these pages. As I learn more, I'll add more data. Please don't email me for more information.


♦ NOTICE. None of the reverb units on this page is for sale by me. You might find one on eBay, though.


♦ NOTICE: Repairs, Modifications. Buy a Sams PhotoFact (schematic) set on eBay. I don't have, nor do I provide schematics. I don't repair or modify reverb units.



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